Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Messina & Sicily:
Last night we asked the boys where they wanted to go – we had three choices: beach, volcano, or the Greek Theater. Of course their preferences were the Volcano or the beach – but the only tickets left were for Taormina and the Greek Theater – so that’s where we went. Taormina was about an hour’s drive down the Sicilian coast – the tour guide was able to give us a running commentary on the history of the area. Taormina was one of the original Greek settlements on the island. All of the islands conquerors were there – Greeks, Romans, Normans, Arabs, Spanish, French, and last the Italians under Garibaldi who freed the Sicilians and brought them into the unified Italy. All of these architectural styles are evident in the buildings of Taormina, but Duomo is Norman. The village is perched on a mountain on the edge of the ocean – a beautiful view of the Med. Many buildings perched on the edges of the cliffs. The theater was at the highest point in the city. Some of the original Greek is left – but it was significantly modified by the Romans. The Greek part is in the columns and porticos. Some of the theater was scavenged to be used in other parts of the town – some of columns support the roof of the Basilica. After the tour of the theater we were free to explore the city – so I let the boys go (like they didn’t want to) – they met us in the main piazza at the end. Chris really wanted to by a Ferrarri shirt – I told him – after the tour. He was out of cash so I gave him 20 Euros – in the Piazza he told us the shirt was over 60 Euros – even he decided that was a little much.
Taormina was a beautiful little town – neat little shops with much better prices than Venice (surprise-surprise). Unfortunately, not enough time. I’d have loved to have gotten the 6.5 hour Taormina on your own – oh well. The guide had mentioned that the Sicilians eat Granite for breakfast so in our wanderings we found a little café and ordered Limone (lemon) Granite – basically a lemon icee – and it was great. We could get used to this life. We wondered how the Italians get anything done – they seem so relaxed. I think they’ve figured out a better way to live - Warm climate, relaxed pace, outdoor dining. I need to remember this when I get home. They are a warm and happy people. If the enchange rate weren’t so lousy I could see spending a lot more time here. I did have this misfortune of stepping under a balcony – and got bombed by one of the pigeons. The movie tonight was Tuscan Sun – and when Dianne Lane gets bombed in the Vila, the Contessa sees it as a good sign and sells her the villa – so this must have been a good sign. Fortunately, Mel had “shout wipe” so I didn’t need to spend the day with a big white blotch on my black shirt. We had to run back to the Piazza to meet the boys and catch the bus – I would love to come back and spend a few days here.
7:00 had been pretty early, so I slept on the ride up (so did Chris who moved in a fog until he was able to get a coke). So I was able the watch the ride down – which I had missed. A real corkscrew road with really high bridges. It great fun when you “leave the driving to us.” It was the bus drivers problem – seemed to be a little like driving in Como – except the bus was a lot bigger. When he came to a curve, he honked the bus. Since we were going down, he had the “right of way.” We’re on a tight curing bridge – no way two busses were going to go through at the same time.
The bus coming up had to yield – she just needed to convince the four cars and a bunch of cycles behind her that they needed to back up so that she could. So a Sicilian standoff for a bit – buy hey, I’m in no hurry. On the trip back we got a little history of the Mafia in Sicily. But they seem to have lost much of their influence.
When we got back to Messina, the boys headed for the ship and we headed into the town – a little like Naples but cleaner and not as busy. We missed the show of the clock tower – at noon the figures on the tower move around. I looked for a place for lunch – but there weren’t very many restaurants. Melie is very patient as I kept looking for the “perfect place” – either too noisy or no shade (and it is a little warm). Finally a turn and the Osteria Aetna – finally an osteria. There was no one sitting under the awning – may they weren’t open. The Sicilians take a Siesta from 1-4 – as I said, they seem to have figured it out. However the place was open – so we had the patio to ourselves. It was the least expensive lunch we’ve had – Bruccetta, Spaghetti, bread, and Sicilian vini – the waiter (father?) brought out the white and the son says – Russo, not white. Ordering was a trip – our lack of Italian and his limited English – more than a few words missed. I ended up with a “Bacon” sauce on my Spaghetti (ham) but we never figured out what Melie had – maybe eggplant? My spaghetti was great. What a wonderful afternoon. Finished off with a little coffee (about a full cup of caffeine in an ounce of espresso). Just down the street from our Osteria (family owned restaurant) was a tire shop – maybe ten feet wide. There is no pulling into a bay and hoisting the car. Nope, just use a jack in the street – I did mention the traffic in Italian streets didn’t I. I wouldn’t have the guts to stick my tush out into one of these streets – but they all have great confidence in what the other drivers will do. Melie still has a bit of difficulty crossing the street. She keeps looking for traffic signals – me, I just look for a break. I expect Melie is going to live longer. After we finish lunch a leisurely stroll back to the ship – with a short stop of gelato. Messina’s been a nice little stop. I’m definitely going to need a little nap though. Oh right, that’s the Italian way – I think I’m getting it.

As the ship leaves Sicilia, we cruise past Strombolli, the island volcano is still active. Hopefully the sunset pictures with the volcano background will look good.

Chris joined us for Dinner tonight – he was looking for his friends and just stopped by to say hello – and decided to stay. We really enjoyed his company. We had seen Greg on the deck as we went past Strombolli, but I think as soon as he saw us he headed for another deck—maybe it was the girls he was with – very cute by the way. We’ve really enjoyed having the boys join us for dinner – it’s a great way to catch up on the day and find out what’s going on with them – what they’ve been doing. They’re really into this cruise thing – they have the routine down. There are lots of kids their age – the O2 club for Greg is a very large group. He got second place for the mask he bought in Venice. He also played to a draw in the Chess championship (against a girl who has five gold medals)– so he has two medals already.

So, another successful day. Tomorrow is our last “relaxing day at sea.” We’ll be cruising south of Corsica on our way to Barcellona. Right now, we have no plans – just exploring the City. I’d like to see the Gaudi Cathedral - maybe we can find a Salvador Dali or Picasso museum. Greg seems to have forgotten that this was the City he said he wanted to see – but I look forward to exploring it tomorrow. Enough of this ramble for now.

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