Messina & Sicily:
Last night we asked the boys where they wanted to go – we had three choices: beach, volcano, or the Greek Theater. Of course their preferences were the Volcano or the beach – but the only tickets left were for Taormina and the Greek Theater – so that’s where we went. Taormina was about an hour’s drive down the Sicilian coast – the tour guide was able to give us a running commentary on the history of the area. Taormina was one of the original Greek settlements on the island. All of the islands conquerors were there – Greeks, Romans, Normans, Arabs, Spanish, French, and last the Italians under Garibaldi who freed the Sicilians and brought them into the unified Italy. All of these architectural styles are evident in the buildings of Taormina, but Duomo is Norman. The village is perched on a mountain on the edge of the ocean – a beautiful view of the Med. Many buildings perched on the edges of the cliffs. The theater was at the highest point in the city. Some of the original Greek is left – but it was significantly modified by the Romans. The Greek part is in the columns and porticos. Some of the theater was scavenged to be used in other parts of the town – some of columns support the roof of the Basilica. After the tour of the theater we were free to explore the city – so I let the boys go (like they didn’t want to) – they met us in the main piazza at the end. Chris really wanted to by a Ferrarri shirt – I told him – after the tour. He was out of cash so I gave him 20 Euros – in the Piazza he told us the shirt was over 60 Euros – even he decided that was a little much.
Taormina was a beautiful little town – neat little shops with much better prices than Venice (surprise-surprise). Unfortunately, not enough time. I’d have loved to have gotten the 6.5 hour Taormina on your own – oh well. The guide had mentioned that the Sicilians eat Granite for breakfast so in our wanderings we found a little café and ordered Limone (lemon) Granite – basically a lemon icee – and it was great. We could get used to this life. We wondered how the Italians get anything done – they seem so relaxed. I think they’ve figured out a better way to live - Warm climate, relaxed pace, outdoor dining. I need to remember this when I get home. They are a warm and happy people. If the enchange rate weren’t so lousy I could see spending a lot more time here. I did have this misfortune of stepping under a balcony – and got bombed by one of the pigeons. The movie tonight was Tuscan Sun – and when Dianne Lane gets bombed in the Vila, the Contessa sees it as a good sign and sells her the villa – so this must have been a good sign. Fortunately, Mel had “shout wipe” so I didn’t need to spend the day with a big white blotch on my black shirt. We had to run back to the Piazza to meet the boys and catch the bus – I would love to come back and spend a few days here.
7:00 had been pretty early, so I slept on the ride up (so did Chris who moved in a fog until he was able to get a coke). So I was able the watch the ride down – which I had missed. A real corkscrew road with really high bridges. It great fun when you “leave the driving to us.” It was the bus drivers problem – seemed to be a little like driving in Como – except the bus was a lot bigger. When he came to a curve, he honked the bus. Since we were going down, he had the “right of way.” We’re on a tight curing bridge – no way two busses were going to go through at the same time.
The bus coming up had to yield – she just needed to convince the four cars and a bunch of cycles behind her that they needed to back up so that she could. So a Sicilian standoff for a bit – buy hey, I’m in no hurry. On the trip back we got a little history of the Mafia in Sicily. But they seem to have lost much of their influence.
When we got back to Messina, the boys headed for the ship and we headed into the town – a little like Naples but cleaner and not as busy. We missed the show of the clock tower – at noon the figures on the tower move around. I looked for a place for lunch – but there weren’t very many restaurants. Melie is very patient as I kept looking for the “perfect place” – either too noisy or no shade (and it is a little warm). Finally a turn and the Osteria Aetna – finally an osteria. There was no one sitting under the awning – may they weren’t open. The Sicilians take a Siesta from 1-4 – as I said, they seem to have figured it out. However the place was open – so we had the patio to ourselves. It was the least expensive lunch we’ve had – Bruccetta, Spaghetti, bread, and Sicilian vini – the waiter (father?) brought out the white and the son says – Russo, not white. Ordering was a trip – our lack of Italian and his limited English – more than a few words missed. I ended up with a “Bacon” sauce on my Spaghetti (ham) but we never figured out what Melie had – maybe eggplant? My spaghetti was great. What a wonderful afternoon. Finished off with a little coffee (about a full cup of caffeine in an ounce of espresso). Just down the street from our Osteria (family owned restaurant) was a tire shop – maybe ten feet wide. There is no pulling into a bay and hoisting the car. Nope, just use a jack in the street – I did mention the traffic in Italian streets didn’t I. I wouldn’t have the guts to stick my tush out into one of these streets – but they all have great confidence in what the other drivers will do. Melie still has a bit of difficulty crossing the street. She keeps looking for traffic signals – me, I just look for a break. I expect Melie is going to live longer. After we finish lunch a leisurely stroll back to the ship – with a short stop of gelato. Messina’s been a nice little stop. I’m definitely going to need a little nap though. Oh right, that’s the Italian way – I think I’m getting it.

As the ship leaves Sicilia, we cruise past Strombolli, the island volcano is still active. Hopefully the sunset pictures with the volcano background will look good.

Chris joined us for Dinner tonight – he was looking for his friends and just stopped by to say hello – and decided to stay. We really enjoyed his company. We had seen Greg on the deck as we went past Strombolli, but I think as soon as he saw us he headed for another deck—maybe it was the girls he was with – very cute by the way. We’ve really enjoyed having the boys join us for dinner – it’s a great way to catch up on the day and find out what’s going on with them – what they’ve been doing. They’re really into this cruise thing – they have the routine down. There are lots of kids their age – the O2 club for Greg is a very large group. He got second place for the mask he bought in Venice. He also played to a draw in the Chess championship (against a girl who has five gold medals)– so he has two medals already.

So, another successful day. Tomorrow is our last “relaxing day at sea.” We’ll be cruising south of Corsica on our way to Barcellona. Right now, we have no plans – just exploring the City. I’d like to see the Gaudi Cathedral - maybe we can find a Salvador Dali or Picasso museum. Greg seems to have forgotten that this was the City he said he wanted to see – but I look forward to exploring it tomorrow. Enough of this ramble for now.

Friday: Today we arrived On Sunday they were going to show Casino Royale and we took the same route into the City. Me – I almost missed it – collapsed in the late morning – but woke up in time to see the city unfold in front of me. After docking we learned how to get into the city – a fair walk (20-30 minutes) from the ship – and a “bus ride” into the city. We bought some 24 hour passes to the Vaporetto (water bus) so that we could get on an off at our leisure – and we proceeded to cruise down the canal. We stood in the entrance deck of the vaporetto so that we could shoot pictures – the digital cameras makes for extensive picture taking – just shoot – if it’s bad, there’s still lots of memory left in the chip. Over the years I know I heard that everything in Venice moves by boat – but this was so cool. A moving van with a load of furniture, a tanker, fire boats and ambulances, and of course gondolas. My hand started to cramp as I shot picture after picture – maybe a video would be better but I know I’ll never watch it – but many of these pictures are bound for wallpaper or a trip gallery on the wall. I think Greg finally filled up his first card today. We headed for the Guggenheim Modern Art museum. On our walk to the museum, Chris found a street merchant selling these funny little squeeze toys – and he had to have one. Of course, as soon as we got to the museum the boys announced they were hungry –they tend to mention this to Melie. So, after getting tickets we headed for the museum café. I checked with the waiter and found out the museum was only open for another hour and a quarter – so I told the boys to hurry. We then went into the museum – it was Peggy Guggenheim’s villa. Wonderful early modern art – as you walk in the door there are several Picasso’s – and it goes on. A whole room of Jackson Pollack. I loved the Jean Miro’s. We spent about an hour – fortunately the museum was smaller than I had expected – so we were able to see almost everything.
But we needed to head back to the ship – our gondola ride awaited us. Back onto the vaporetto and another walk to the ship – then we went on a special vaporetto – I guess we’ll call this the gondola van - to meet the gondolas – and we were dropped off at just past Piazza San Marco – we’d need to cross the bridge of Sighs to get to St Marks. Chris wanted to buy a mask for the masquerade party on the ship – I managed to dissuade him for a while – “we’ll be back here to go back to the ship and you can buy it then.” So he reluctantly agreed and we’re off to the gondola. Into Piazza San Marco – the sun is just going down. But there’s enough light for pictures. They we doing some restoration and they drape the building – of course this is advertising space so there’s a huge photo of Roger Fedderer – and watches. We wound through the back alleys behind San Marco and eventually came to the gondolas. We got a great one – clean and ornate. The gondolier was a little quiet – he never said a word to us – but it was a nice long ride through the little canals – and a bit into the grand canal. The gondola with the accordian player and a singer was just behind us – so we were serenaded for our entire ride – for a good bit our gondolas were side by side – Volare, etc. Of course, you need to kiss under each bridge – and the boys didn’t want to kiss me so I had to settle for Melie – life’s tough. Greg wanted to hurry back to the ship (Loren awaits?) but by the time the ride ended, it was faster to take the gondola vaporetto back to the ship. However there was enough time for Chris to buy his mask. We finally got back to the ship about 11:30 – we collapsed but I know Greg had important things to do. I did remind him that we were going to Murano and Burano the next day – and he had to be ready to go by 7:30 (even though the trip wouldn’t start until 8:00 – but I wasn’t going to risk us being late – the boys almost missed the gondola ride).
Saturday: Very early – Chris was really dragging. Fortunately, I grabbed a few extra rolls at breakfast – I know I’ll need to feed these food machines soon. Chris had a few minutes to get something. We set off on another vaporetto for Burano – it’s another island and not part of Venice. It’s a fishing village that also specializes in lace. We went to a lace factory and had a few minutes to wander around the island – very small. But it’s really beautiful – and there was the Leaning Tower of Burano – not as elaborate as Pisa – but I missed that one. This was cool. Everyone paints their house a different color – that’s how they distinguish addresses. After a short time, back onto the vaporetto to Murano. Not nearly as pretty but we went into a glass factory. The boys seemed to really enjoy this – they gave a glass blowing demonstration – a vase and a horse. Then we went into their showroom – there was a really nice “wave” sculpture – only $7,500 – they’re happy to take dollars – no difficultly. I couldn’t afford the hand made lace in Burano and it looks like I’m not taking any art glass home from Murano – but I do have great memories. After a good morning, it back to the ship. They boys have things to do (on the ship) and this is a chance for Melie and me to go into Venice.
The tour guide said that the prices around the Rialto (bridge) were cheaper – so off we went. The Rialto area was really crowded – probably because the street was only about 20 feet wide with shops and stands everywhere. Melie didn’t realize that there were shops on the bridge itself – it was great fun. Melie and I had lunch at a little sidewalk café next to the Rialto bridge – it was worth it! A little wine, spaghetti, people watching, gondolas, and the Rialto bridge – eat your hearts out. More strolling and shopping and then back to the ship. More sight seeing on the ride back and then plenty of time to get back on the ship before it pulled out. A little relaxing on deck and watching Venice disappear behind us – what a wonderful experience. A beautiful and romantic city. Tonight is a masquerade ball on the ship – we get to wear the masks we bought in Venice. Collapse again – thank goodness tomorrow is a “relaxing day at sea.”

Sunday: Up late – quiet breakfast – some reading. And of course – a chance to catch up with this diary. Sitting on the balcony and watching the Adriatic go by. I spotted a sea turtle! Freighters, ferries, small liners – and an incredibly quiet sea – very calm. It’s nice and cool on the balcony, clean air – I could get used to this.

Venice and Ramblings

Sunday (apparently) and we finally have another “fun day at sea.” I say finally because we are getting tired and over-stimulated with too many wonderful, spectacular sights. I don’t expect anyone to sympathize with us very much, however. So anyway, I’m sitting out on our balcony with Norv, who is reading, and enjoying the quiet sounds of rolling waves and the very peaceful view of nothing but blue, blue water for as far as I can see. So basically, the opposite of stimulating – which is good.

Friday and Saturday we were in Venice, which was like nothing I’ve ever seen before. I never really “got it” before that this whole city is held together by waterways – only. I stood on the top deck as the ship was coming into the city and I just watched in absolute awe as the city gradually revealed itself. It just seemed impossibly gorgeous. You know how you have moments in your life where everything just comes together in pure delight, and this was definitely one of them for me. I stood alone (with hundreds of others) and hung over the side, sipping my margarita, feeling the Mediterranean breeze and warm sun and just relishing the colors and shapes and pure beauty of Venice.
Enough of that kind of talk. After figuring out how to get on the Vaporetto (water bus), the four of us went to the Peggy Guggenheim museum, which features modern art, and we saw original works by Picasso, Kandinsky, Max Ernst, Jackson Pollack, Dali, Chagall, some Calder mobiles, and a few others as well. It was a very clean-lined, sparse (and sweet) museum that was just the right size to really explore and to spend as long as we wanted taking in each piece. The modern Italian design of the gallery was such a great contrast to the old stone walls of the canals and the peeling paint on the houses outside the gate. We had a snack at the gallery’s café, and then got back to the ship.

Later that evening, we took a gondola ride that required a walk through St. Mark’s square, which fortunately was much less crowded than in the afternoon. The four of us took a ride in the dark and, as we wound around the canals, were treated to glimpses of Venetian households and merchants doing whatever people do at the end of a day. Just little moments that contrasted with the cheesiness of the ride itself and the dozens of tourists hanging over each bridge to take our picture as we floated by. I’m pretty sure our gondolier was made out of cardboard, but luckily the gondola behind us included a singer and an accordion player. The singer carried off the Italian thing very well, looking the part and singing with a loud, impressive voice. He really did sing Volare and Funnniculi, Funnicula or what that is, some other things in Italian and then some Sinatra (in English) as well. So that was perfect, and we really enjoyed it, especially after Norv finally stopped trying to sing along with the guy.

I thank the boys for going along with this adventure, because I suspect it was not at the top of their list. But we enjoyed having them – and it’s all about us.

We also signed them up without their knowing it for tours the next morning to the islands of Murano (Italian glass) and Burano (handmade lace). We went to a glass factory and watched as they made a vase and a horse (!), and then we were able to look at many, many beautiful pieces. I took a million pictures of glass objects that were very sleek and modern – and beautiful. Those were the ones that appealed to me.

Then on Burano, we watched some women make lace by hand, learned about the different kinds of lace, and then, of course, were led to a store where we could buy lots of souvenirs with some kind of lace on them. The town is also famous for their very bright, almost garish, paint colors, so we all took a number of pictures of the streets and houses. It seems that way back when, instead of using numbers to identify houses, each family was assigned a particular color that represented them. Thus, the many different colored houses. The neighborhood we were in reminded me of preschool with all the bright colors; I much prefer the reds, siennas, and golds of the buildings in the city of Venice. Those are my colors.

Anyway, Greg and Chris seemed to like the tour in spite of the time it took to get to each island, and Chris in particular was full of questions and observations about the whole gig. When we got back to the ship, the boys took off for their own activities, and Norv and I went back to the city one last time. We ate lunch at an outdoor café right on the water at the Rialto bridge, with two gondoliers right in front of us, the farmer’s market across the canal, fabulous bread, lasagna and spaghetti and a whole bottle of Chianti – and, it seemed, all the time in the world. Exquisite. You know how when there is some sight or some experience that you’ve heard about all your life, and when you actually get to do it, of course it isn’t exactly like you imagined it. That’s expected. But that lunch was straight out of a movie; it was just the way I imagined Venice should be. This is such a wonderful trip.

Before going back to the ship, we bought some Venetian masks to wear to the costume ball last night on the ship. (Hey, it’s a cruise…..) We actually did wear them to the “ball” up on the Lido deck and watched everyone generally make fools of themselves. I won’t mention how Norv put his mask on backwards with a 6 inch beak sticking out the back of his head – so that he could eat – and then vigorously danced some kind of hand dance they were trying to teach us. He said the trick is to just do it real fast and it doesn’t really matter which order you do the various parts in. Such a party animal. No wonder Greg, in his own bird mask, had no desire to acknowledge us, and was probably relieved when we finally left. (How would you like your grandfather to be at an event with a bunch of your friends (m/f) that included singing, line dancing, and tossing a rubber cow back and forth?)

So anyway, today is a welcome respite, and it’s nice to get to write to you again. Tomorrow is Messina, then Barcelona, Livorno, Cannes – and Rome. What an amazing adventure!

P.S. Christopher won the scavenger hunt in his club yesterday, and Greg won a medal in the chess contest for his own group. So they’re having a good time on the ship. Chris knows this ship from stem to stern (I’m learning way more nautical language than I ever wanted to) and can tell you what is going on and what has gone on almost everywhere on the ship? He’s amazing. They both have the whole cruise thing down pat. I, on the other hand, keep walking in the wrong direction about half the time. If I can look out a window, I can figure out where the front of the ship (bow) is by which way the water is moving – otherwise, it’s just a guess.

Thursday - Dubrovnik

Norv pretty much described my impressions of Dubrovnik - it was unbelievable. It was the second medieval walled city I've seen this week, but it was very different from Siena. Not so Disney-ish, what with bullet holes in the thick stone walls, cannons poking through openings everywhere, and most of all, with the blue, blue Adriatic surrounding it all. Stunning. We walked around the top of the wall (1.5 miles) and each step presented another breathtaking view - and of course, another photo op. We all took numerous pictures which we will undoubtedly try to show you.

It was here that my camera battery petered out - the one I just bought in Citivecchia. Apparently the charger they sold me doesn't work, and because I didn't want to take any more chances, I bought another battery and charger set and am keeping my fingers crossed. A huge proportion of my souvenir funds has gone to photographic equipment, but it seems necessary. I probably will never be here again. Now if I can just figure out how to get some of these photos on this blog; I have been trying for several days. I'm unfortunately not that familiar with the process on a Mac (Matt? Chip?). But I WILL do it - and I think you will enjoy them.

Did I say what great young men Chris and Greg are? Lots of fun, full of interesting and quirky observations, always respectful. I'm enjoying getting to know them better.

Finally, this is for Mom and Patti: we found a bar with a cool bartender who makes a killer martini, and that seems to be the place to go before our 8:30 dinner. It's nice to have a little routine in a crazy schedule like this. (Soon everyone will know our names.......)

Catch ya later.

A few notes from a crazy italian driver - I learn fast

Thoughts for the trip to the Med

Departure:
How to survive (?) on no sleep. We got to Alison’s about 11:00 – some fumbling with the key – but we got in. Did some last minute re-arranging of luggage – then an attempt to get a little sleep – very little. Set the alarm for 3:00 -- the van driver arrived about 3:40 (quick shower – the last for several days) – then into the shuttle and on to the airport. We arrived at the airport about 4:15 – way before the gate staff. Stood in line until they showed up – quick processing and into the gate area – we were the first there. Security was a joke for me – forgot I had the I Touch and cell phone in my pocket – set off the alarm – but he allowed me to re-enter after I ditched the hardware. They even made me send the “security wallet” through the screen – it didn’t have anything in it.

Waiting for the plane – picked up a little coffee. Then finally the flight to Newark – full plane. Couldn’t believe they had overhead space – I snuck both of my bags up there – oh well. A little catnap – but I thought I’d try to stay awake until the Atlantic. Finally in Newark and a smooth transition to the flight to Milan. Thought I’d get a little sleep – no way. Was up most of the flight. A few short naps – but nothing that qualified as sleep. Landed in Milan a little early – after a delay of almost an hour in Newark waiting for clearance – on the taxi-way of course. An hour’s delay and we still arrived early – must have been a hell of a tailwind (over 75 knots).

Milan: Pick up the car after clearing customs – what a breeze – they didn’t even ask us for the purpose of our visit. Carrying the luggage out – they didn’t even give us a passing glance. The car was pretty easy – we got a Passat – I was pretty happy about that – nice little car – very sprited and handled well – stick shift though – that took a little getting used to. Hate to think how many times I stalled it out. And no visible emergency brake. Did you ever try to restart a car on a hill while sliding backward!

OK—so we’re on the road – OMG – Italian drivers. Driving regulations here seem to be merely suggestions – and the primary rule – “Chicken” – he who flinches loses.

We decided to take a little detour to Lake Como – we were just going to go to Como and look at the lake but we decided Belagio sounded good. Just a few Km’s beyond Como. Did I mention that Mel is a little “Map Challenged.” But, in fairness to her – the Italian’s have the worst road signs I’ve ever encountered. They wouldn’t dream of giving a road number – just place names. So if you don’t know the name of the next town down the road – oh well. There was one sign that said Belagio – and I missed it – Mel mentioned it after we had passed. However I thought it was a prior notice – little did I know it was the only notice. So I kept driving (by the way, I did of lot of that – if at first you don’t find it, keep driving and something will happen) – the next thing I know there’s a lot of slow traffic and I find us in the que for the Swiss border – and the next thing I know, we’re in Switzerland! We stopped at a road side stop – Mel couldn’t believe – a whole aisle with nothing but Chocolate.

I thought it would be an easy matter to get an exit and easy back – oops, this is Europe (actually I think the Italians had a lot of influence over the Swiss in this area. Anyway, eventually I found an exit/entrance and started back into Italy – of course now the “customs” wait was back – but eventually we were back in Italy. Now I watched carefully for the Belagio exit – this should be easy – oh wait, this is Italy. Somehow I missed the road to Belagio – it’s on the South side of the lake – and ended up driving up the north side of the lake. Remember those action scenes of stunt drivers navigating though narrow streets with maniac’s trying to take up the road – well they practice those scenes on the road next to Lake Como. IT was beautiful – a gorgeous alpine lake, wonderful climate, fantastic villa’s – we must have passed George Clooney’s place, but it’s not well marked. No place to stop. I’m now worried that I should have taken out the collision waiver – I can just see a long scrape down the side of the car – or a totally mashed in front. However, we were soon at eh last village. I though we might continue around the lake. Stopped and got a little Gellato – it was fantastic. However the proprieter indicated the best way back to Milano was the way we had come. However on the way back we found that there was another road a little above the first – and it was actually two lanes. This made the drive back a little easier – but not anywhere near as exciting. Eventually we’re back on the Autostratta and heading south toward Siena – it was later afternoon and we thought we should hustle it. It looked like the easiest way was through Genoa – we could take a little quick detour in Pisa, but otherwise it looked like a pretty straight shot to Florence. Did I mention Italian road signs.

Did I mention that I keep driving. Well I kept looking for signs to Genoa – they had been there but then they disappeared and all I could see was Balogna – and the country was flat – lots of corn. I couldn’t figure out where we were so eventually we pulled off into a rest stop and I discovered I was going down the middle of Italy – not the coast. I’m also totally exhausted at this point. Alison was right being concerned when I told her we were thinking about Como. Pulled under some shade, opened all the windows, reclined the seats, and closed our eyes. It was hot, but we didn’t care. The little nap did a world of good. I can make this last push now. We continued on down the road. At Balogna was another turn off to Florence – so we headed there.

Ah ha – Florence. So all we need to do is take the highway around Firenze and we’ll be on our way to Siena down either SS1 or the Chianti road – either would be fine. So I’m looking for a sign to Siena (it’s a major city, right – it should so up on a road sign) – however the only one I see is the “chianti” rest stop. Well, guess what, we’ve missed another turn off. However there is another turn off that winds back toward Siena – so we watch intently and – there it is! So we manage to make the turn – now if we can just find a road sign with the name of the highway – oh – there is it, just ahead of us – so down the road we go – until it abruptly stops – dead end! – construction! So, back to the intersection. Eventually we stumble on the detour – rediversioni – and find a turn to Greve – wait – that’s on the Chianti road – and it leads to Siena. Well we’re now on SS12 – and it’s a little curvy road – like the run to Calistoga. It was a great little road – we’re really in Tuscany! Little winery’s, villas, rolling hills, hillside towns. Soon we’re in Greve and on the Chianti road. This is everything I expected Tuscany to be. It was great – the hills, vineyards, history! OK – one goal met.
Now, on to Siena. We went through several beautiful little towns. However, the sun is quickly setting – will we get to Siena before it’s gone? Eventually, Siena is on the horizon – beautiful city on a hill – Duomo, etc. Just what I expected.

Now we just need to find the Hotel Italia – how difficult can it be. Siena is just a little town and the hotels must be well marked! Just around the next turn – oops this is a little town street not much wider than the car. And it’s really tough to make a u-turn in these narrow quarters – wait, we’ve been here before – maybe this way! OK Melie, call the Hotel and ask how to get there – wait, we’ve not used our cell phones yet in Italy. After several attempts with tech support, and at least one cut-off. We finally get the Hotel – he has no idea where we are but we’re not in the right place – just go to the RR station (ferrovia statiazone) – where’s that. Oh, there’s a sign – down this road – Nope, not this direction – maybe here – oh no – it’s that frigging Fort again – OK, back down – wait – there – Hotel Italia! Oops – wrong turn – eventually back on track – there – the Hotel! Mel goes in – try to find a place to Park? Around the back! On the street? It’s OK – it’s safe. Finally, we’re in – by the way – no bell’s – lug the suitcases up the stairs to the second floor room – but it’s a cute room. Food? 20 meters down the road – a little deli but at least it’s open. And the wine was great. Eventually we collapsed into the sweet bed – the next thing we knew it was morning – Melie complained about me turning on the light – I had to assure her that the source of the light was the sun. I went down and got some coffee and a few rolls – when we finally got down there, the breakfast was closed. Oh well, we’ll explore Siena.

Siena: This is a fantastic city. It more than lives up to its name. We just wander around – scolded by a bus driver because we walked through the vehicle gate rather than the walker’s gate – so what’s another screw up. We bump into a woman who wonders if we speak English – do we know where there’s a grocery store. Not a clue – but ask her if she knows where the central piazza is – yes – she’s been here for weeks. Her boyfriend had a bike accident and she’s been in town for two weeks. I have the sense that the romance of Tuscany has worn off for her. But Siena is beautiful – I have lots of pictures. A little warm but the breeze is great. We went into the Duomo – black and white striped marble. Great floors, the library was incredible – I have pictures. At least I’ve finally learned how to turn off the flash. We had lunch in the Piazza -- watched a “clown” tease folks – to entertain us. Those of us in the restaurant enjoyed the show – those being teased hadn’t a clue what was happening. About 3:00 we decided we’d better get going if we were going to get to Rome at a decent time. All we need to do is leave Siena –and around and around and up and down the hills -- wrong turns into dead ends again – what kind of neighborhoods are these? There – that’s the city we want to go to – wait – where did it go – right – nope – straight – nope – left – nope – right again – oh no the frigging fort again – OK – let’s go left and just keep going – wow – there it is – eventually we’re on our way to the coast. Great little drive through the Tuscan hills.

Siena to Rome:
Headed to the sea – and made it. Eventually drove into Civiciteviccia – and saw the port – a chance to check things out for tomorrow. OK – drove in OK – drove out OK—this looks doable. Drove through the town and decided to stay on SS1 into Rome – a nice little drive down the Med coast. On the way we passed a campground – it must have gone on for miles – and the place was full of little cabins – modern versions of what we saw in Yosemite. Melie said it reminded her of Capitola. It was picturesque – and jammed with people – stop and go driving for miles. When we finally reached open road – we did well, until we ran into a multi-lane jam – more delays. Guess what, we’re not going to get into Rome before dark – oh well.

Rome:
There’s a road around Rome – called the GRA. If we take it, it will go almost directly to Ciampino – the airport the boys are flying into. And the hotel is right there. So, there – signs to the GRA – we’re on track. Wait – where is it? That was a road to Napoli – not the GRA. Oh no – we’re driving into Rome – central Rome. I don’t think I want to be here. Whoops, the road is stopping – well maybe I can hang a U-turn and get back onto the GRA. Yeah, right – so simple. Eventually we come to the GRA and follow it to Ciampino – check out the airport – this looks easy – nice small little place. Now to find the hotel, right next to the airport right – well we haven’t seen it yet. This time I’m not will to drive all night – exhaustion is rapidly gaining on me. I’ll ask the Caribiniari for directions. He’s not certain about the hotel, but he says that the “900” block is a few Km’s up the road – OK – so we drive, and drive, and drive – Rome is getting closer again – wait, there it is – on the other side of the divided highway – oh, here’s a break – no sign against u-turns – back – OK – into the hotel. Thankfully they have our reservation. Restaurant – nope, closed – but there’s a place “500 meters” down the road – we could walk – but? We’ll drive, and he makes reservations for us (at 11:00) – well 500 meters is more like 2 Km’ ss – but we eventually get there. Nice place – Italians take their time – but we get do dine al fresco – it’s really nice. Finally finish dinner about 1:00 AM – yes – we closed the restaurant. Back to the hotel – no signs against u-turns but the other drivers honk loudly – now I see – the turn is in the right lane – that’ll be handy in the morning. Hopefully we get a little sleep tonight – but the boys arrive at 8:00 tomorrow – up at 7.

Boys arrive:
Ciampino was a nice quiet place last night – we’ll this morning isn’t last night. Lots and lots of people trying to catch a plane. Lines for the ticket counters are at least 10 deep (not 10 people, 10 lines of people snaking around). Makes the Sacramento airport security lines on a busy morning look downright short. I wander around looking for arrivals – eventually ask a ticket agent – she directs me around to the other side of the airport (small sign that says arrivals) – if you don’t know your way around – don’t count on the signs to tell you where to go. As I head up the ramp, the boys are coming down – talk about perfect timing or dumb luck. OK – so we head back to the hotel – and this time I make a proper left turn – by getting in the right lane. If I’d try to hang a u-turn I’m certain I would have used up my deductible on the car. We had a nice breakfast in the hotel and then headed off to the ship.

Embarkation?
So here we go down the GRA – that was the road I couldn’t find last night. See the signs for the A12 to Civictaveccia – this should be no sweat – right – and right on past the exit again. And the gas light comes on for the car – OK – I’ll pull off and get gas – like the car uses diesel. Melie said the restrooms were the nicest she’d seen so far :>). The gas attendant told us we only needed to go a few more Km’s and there was another exit (SS1) – this tone I made – and we’re off. Remember we checked out the port yesterday. So we found the exit and figured – like Toni told us – we’d drive onto the pier and drop off the car – right. Drove through the gate and said Carnival Freedom and were directed to the right. There’s the ship – just a quick drop off of the luggage and drop the car. Wait, they won’t let us get near the ship. When Melie asks someone they say – just park the car – you must move, we need this space. After several trips around the pier, we decide to leave the port area and see if there’s another option. There – an Avis sign – maybe they know where the Hertz place is. The guy doesn’t want to talk to Melie, she’s asking about Hertz, it’s lunch, and his girl friend is waiting. Finally, he says – go that way. We wander down the road – and lo – a hertz sign. We pull in and they say do you want to drop the car – YES – so do you have a shuttle to the port? We don’t offer shuttles – just take your luggage to the Port Shuttle near the fort. So back toward the dreaded pier – but we find the port shuttle buses and I drop Melie and the kids – then run the car back to Hertz. This may work. I walk back to the shuttle stop – meet Melie and the boys -- and we finally get on a Carnival Freedom shuttle – and we’re off to the ship.

The shuttle pulls up to the ship, we unload our baggage, and get ready to board. Wait – where’s Mellie’s big bag – did we leave it on the shuttle? Everyone says – no worry – but guess what. Finally our shuttle makes another circle – but no Melie bag. So, we hold our breath, get on the ship, and head for a bar – of course the boys need to check out the ship. Finally drift back to our cabin – and Melie’s bag has shown up – OK – now we can start.

I can’t believe – 5 pages of the accidental (ly prone) tourist. Well, tomorrow is another day.

Naples (7/22):
Up early – we don’t have much time to get to Pompei. I checked out the guide book and the train station to Pompeii is just a short walk. Of course, all of the taxi drivers want to take us to Pompeii for only a 100 euros – but we’re going to walk to the station and hop on the train. I don’t usually think of a walk as an adventure – but after all this is Naples and Italy and Italian drivers – especially the maniacs on scooters. Only a few wrong turns - - but the map works and eventually we’re on the train to Pompeii Scavi (ruins).

Pompeii was great. I’ve wanted to go there for years – I remember reading about it in elementary school. So here we are! I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves (yes – slide show to come). The fun detour was when I asked the boys if there was something they’d like to see – for Chris it was the Anfiteatro (Coliseum). Melie decides this would be a good opportunity for boys time – especially since the Coliseum is on the other side of the town. Chris was in his element – he’s the one who found the entrance used by the wild animals and gladiators. On the way we saw some great places – I really enjoyed the house of the Cecci – there were several frescos. Pompeii was a success! The train ride and walk back to the ship were smooth – I think we may have figured out the Italian traffic. Back on the ship a trip to the pool and relaxation Pompeii was a real hike. Ship leaves at 7:00 and we’re on to Dubrovnik.

Day at sea: Sleep late, go to the art auction, Captain’s Dinner.

Dubrovnik: I’ve wanted to see Dubrovnik since I saw pictures that Sid took over 30 years ago. Although 80% of the town was destroyed during the civil war – they’ve done a great job of reconstructing it. We took a long walk around the walls of the city – some of those walls are really high – and the stairway up to the rampart is steep and narrow (but there’s a really good railing). Lots of great views – the city is beautiful. Most of the buildings have been restored. After our hike around the wall, we stop is a little restaurant for an al fresco lunch of spaghetti. Then a little shopping and exploring the city’s narrow winding streets. Found some things that’ll probably show up in the future. Lots of pictures! The boys seemed to really enjoy the city. Back to the ship. The boys are off exploring again – they’re really getting into the groups of kids on the ship – saw Chris briefly tonight – he said hi but he’s much to busy. We’re now crossing the Adriatic – Venice tomorrow.

hello from europe from greg and chris

Hey mom. Greg here. The cruise and the entire trip have been incredible. It's been one of the best experiences of my life to go on an international trip like this, and I've been meeting so many people and taken so many pictures. Sorry I haven't emailed, but internet costs are ghastly. Looking forward to seeing everybody back home, but not too soon. :) Love you!

Bongiorno! Chris here! I have really liked Europe so far, and this cruise has been amazing! We have been so many places over the past one and a half weeks! I have made so many new friends, scotty, whose real name is callum. Try to guess where he is from? That's right scotland! I have been sure to right a lot in my journal. Looking forward to seeing you in two weeks! love you!

Pompeii and a day at sea

Wednesday – A day at sea. Finally, a chance to relax and regroup mentally. We slept in, ate a leisurely breakfast, attended the art auction (I was able to keep Norv from buying a $7000 Peter Max print), and bought silly drinks on the deck while stretched out in the sun. Yesterday, we actually swam and hot-tubbed – met a nice couple from Sydney. So we are getting quite familiar with the cruise culture, which of course, is like no other.
Yesterday was Naples, and reports of stinking garbage were grossly inaccurate. It was not any dirtier than any other large city. What the warnings should have been about were the crazy drivers, who don’t recognize pedestrians or crosswalks – or speed limits. We walked from the ship to the train station and (my opinion only, of course) risked our lives each time we had to cross the street. It was terrifying, and I was quite relieved to get to the train where we could relax for 45 minutes on the way to Pompeii. The train let us off right at the gates of Pompeii, and we spent several hours exploring the remains of that unfortunate city. Christopher was initially not all that impressed with the whole thing, and I think he was wondering why Norv (Boppa) and I and Greg kept stopping every 15 feet to take 2 or 3 pictures. I mean – it’s just a bunch of stones and fragments of walls, etc. But then he decided he wanted to see the anfiteatro – the colosseum – which was the farthest distance from the gate of all the structures. He brightened up quite a bit once the guys made the trek over there. I decided to enjoy the heat and humidity in my own way. We all enjoyed ourselves in Pompeii and were properly awed by the historical significance. I think we were also aware of the fuzzy outline of Mt. Vesuvius lurking in the sky nearby – eerie……….
The boys joined us for dinner last night and we all managed to use the right forks and spoons and enjoy the fantastic food. Christopher had cream of peach soup as an appetizer, which he raved about. Greg ordered my favorite dessert – chocolate melting pot. The four of us had a great time rehashing the events of the day, and then the guys went off to their respective “club” activities, and Norv and I took in some entertainment at a couple of clubs and then the large show of singers and dancers. A full and rewarding day.
I miss all of you and my cats – and the Sacramento news. Hope you are all well – that is, if anyone is actually reading this. Tomorrow – Dubrovnik. Can’t wait.

Milan, Lake Como, Rome, etc.

Yikes!  It isn't as easy as I'd hoped to get internet access around here (don't tell my Dean.)  It's all a blur and a really long, convoluted story to explain why I'm feeling so frustrated here, but probably the main thing is that Norv and I both have been so extremely tired since we got here that we are not functioning at a very impressive level.  Our flight schedule was not a good one at all, getting two hours sleep the night before the flight, etc.  Anyway - another time.....

BUT - the main thing is we finally got on the ship, with Christopher and Greg in tow, and we've enjoyed our first beautiful and very rich dinner, our first orange drink with an umbrella in it,  and of course, the crazy wild drill with the life jackets.  We go to Naples in the morning, and have plans to catch a train to Pompei, Herculean, and then to share a true pizza before getting back on the ship.  I say we have plans because that's the way the last three days have gone; we have plans and then there's reality instead.

Of course, it is absolutely beautiful here, and we have seen some outstanding sights in a short time.  We rented a car (Passat) and drove from the airport in Milan to Lake Como (where George Clooney has a place).  Norv drives like a true Italian, top-speed, switching lanes back 

and forth, playing chicken with anyone who tries to impede our progress.  Very impressive.  The roads around Lake Como are just like in the movies where they twist and turn and there is only room for one car when two must fit.  We somehow found ourselves at the Swiss Border, so we did the only intelligent thing we could do:  cross over and buy some chocolate (get ready, Josie!).  Then we came back and drove around some more hairpin turns, stopped and bought some wonderful gelato, and generally just relished the beautiful scenery.

We had a plan (!) to drive to Siena, where we had a hotel waiting, through the Tuscan hills, taking the Chianti Road, just leisurely cruising along enjoying the incredible countryside.  Which we did, except that the maps and the roads didn't always match, and we arrived late in Siena where we proceeded to drive around and around and around the little circle of a town for more than an hour.  We couldn't find the hotel until after 10 p.m. and by then there was only a little deli open where we could get some dinner. The next morning, we discovered what a beautiful little walled city from the middle ages Siena actually is, and we explored the tiny little walled in streets for most of the day, lunching on the piazza, exploring the Duomo (cathedral) - you know, the things tourists do.

In the afternoon, we tried to leave Siena, but once again, it caught us in its vortex and would not let us out.  We went around and around and around until it finally relented and spit us out.  We have no idea how we finally escaped.  We then drove through Tuscany again, to the coast and through some little seaside resort towns like Capitola.  We went through Civitivecchia, which is where the port is and where we got on the ship today, and somehow, we found ourselves actually entering the port - gates and all.  We set off for Rome, where again we had a hotel room waiting near the airport where Chris and Greg were coming in this morning.  Again, we could not find the hotel anywhere.  All the helpful directions we were given seemed to only confuse us more. Again, dinner at 10:30 - but this time in a very sweet, outdoor ristorante.  So nice.

This morning, we had breakfast at the hotel with the boys (who loaded up on the buffet very well), and then tried to drive to the port, planning a brief stop to pick up a new battery for my camera (I had left mine charging at home in preparation for the trip).  This turned into a scavenger hunt around the little town of Citivecchia, with one shopkeeper of one tiny shop sending us to another and yet another, etc.  We finally got one at an astronomical price, but what else could I do?  Then the nightmare from hell began.  We drove to the port, right up to the Carnival ship, and found out there really isn't a place to drop off a Hertz rental car right there, as our travel agent had assured us.  Not only that, but no one in this town or on this cruise ship had apparently ever heard of someone trying to drop off a rental car.  They didn't know where Hertz was, they suggested we just leave the car in the parking lot for the 12 days, they kept telling us to just get on the shuttle bus and then we wouldn't have to worry about the car.  Norv and I were both working at half-speed by now (that's optimistic), but I swear, this situation would have done anyone in.  The stupid car kept dying, the little streets were suddenly 1-way, the Italians were trying to kill us left and right, and we couldn't get all the suitcases and the four of us on the ship sitting right in front of us.  Of course, we eventually got it all worked out, we got on the shuttle, and when my largest suitcase turned up missing from the shuttle bus, it barely registered on my alarm meter.  I just didn't even care.  I figured it would turn up - or it wouldn't.  And it did.  So maybe our luck is changing.  I know my narcolepsy and Norv's occasional befuddled moments are starting to abate somewhat.  He is outside right now on the balcony reveling in the full moon reflected on the sea.We think the worst is behind us - and having the boys to keep us on track will definitely be a plus.  They are loving the cruise ship and they keep things interesting!

  So keep your fingers crossed for us.  They say that the garbage strike in Naples, which has been going on for quite a while, makes the town very disagreeable.  Should be newsworthy.

Sorry to go on so long.  I guess I needed to vent.......

Push Comes to Shove.....

It's just about that time now...zip the last zipper, stash the last stash, pop the last pill --and then off to the Amazing Mediterranean Adventure. I can't wait!

This is the spot where I will try to post some notes, reflections, impressions, and, I hope, some pictures. And if Greg, Chris or Norv want to add to this blog, they will be more than welcome. So if you are interested, tune in later to see what may pop up here. And honestly, even if nobody else is captivated by this blog, it is really my secret way to remember this trip - and so I am motivated to keep it current and somewhat accurate. Later.......