Rome-day 3 and 4 and the return home - Norv

Rome-Day 3
We finished off the “sites” yesterday. Catching the Pantheon and the Fountains last night finally allowed us to complete the list. Today is the “oh my god, we haven’t gotten stuff yet – we need to go shopping” day. We decide the Spanish Steps area looks good – so off we go. Wait, there’s the maid. We need TP, shampoo, and fresh towels. She says she’ll bring them. I’ve decided to use my initiative. I find a key laying on the sidewalk – belongs to the maid. I’ve already appropriated the TP and shampoo and some soap. But now, I figure I can get into the supply cabinet. As I go back into the depths, I find a linen cart – full of towels. I grab a bunch and come back with a dumb grin of the successful scrounger. Clean towels tonight and tomorrow! (the maid never did bring any towels – or anything else). Now we’re off. Boy, we’re really getting this Metro run down well.
When we get to the steps, we split up – it’s time for the boys to have some free time and independence (and for me to give it to them). We agree to meet at the steps at 3:30 for lunch – and off they go looking for swords, switchblades, and Ferrari shirts. Mel and I head to the top of the steps to check the area behind them out. I know I’ve mentioned how hot and humid it is here – it’s after 1:00 – time for a beer. I know that Italy is wine country, but right now a beer sounds a lot better – and I find some Corona for Mel. After a little chill time, we head on down the street and find this neat little leather shop – I promised Jenna that I’d replace her “genuine Italian Leather Purse” that she’d bought from a street vendor when she was in Italy. I find something I really like – and think Jen will like – and then we continue walking. Lots of little stores tucked away around here – we should be finding something. Well, you all will find out soon enough. It was frustrating that with all the places we’ve been, we haven’t really had time to look at things or chill very much. Walked past two women, and one of them said, “I think I’d just like to chill tomorrow” – sounds like a good idea. We’ll need to come back with a much looser schedule – and a better exchange rate.
We meet up with the boys as arranged and go looking for a Pizza place – of course, when you’re looking you don’t find one. We finally decided to go back to the place Mel and I had had the beer – we had a nice light lunch and agreed to continue shopping – we’ll meet at the steps in a few hours. Chris had found a Ferrari shirt – but Greg not having much luck. There were lots of swords in Naples – but there was no way he’d have been allowed to carry them onto the ship. We meet back at the steps and Mel still needs more time – my feet are killing me – so I let them all go off again and I just sit in the shade on the steps and watch the parade of humanity.
Finally, it looks like we’ve been as successful as we’re going to be and it’s back to the apartment. Mel and I just crash for awhile – these boys sure have lots of reserve energy. They’re worried about dinner – but we promise them that 9:30’s not too late to eat. We end up back at the little place from two nights ago, and the waiter remembers us – Naturalle water and red wine. Tonight the restaurant is packed – but we find a corner table where we can see the lights reflected off the Tiber. A nice “last dinner” in Rome – and the end of Chris’s 12th year – tomorrow he’s 13! Back to the apartment to pack – but Mel and I only have enough energy to clear off the bed.
Day 4: The light filters into the room on our last day. Oh the intimidating piles of stuff that somehow needs to get stuffed into bags. Old worry wart – me – starts to wonder about weight limits. But at this point I don’t care – let them charge away. We get packed, have breakfast (another first, Melie makes tortellini and stewed tomatoes – we’ve eaten most of the food. They call a cab for us – a connection to the train to DaVinci airport – and we’re off. A bit of a rush onto the train, but we get all the bags on. Fortunately, the airport is the end of the line for this train. However when we get to the train, the crowd trying to get onto the train doesn’t want us to get off – boy you need to be aggressive and pushy around here. Finally we’re into the airport – now where? Mel takes over and asks someone – we were in terminal C where our gate was – but we needed to go to Terminal 5 – international departures. Of course, this being Italy, there aren’t any signs telling you this. Eventually we clear customs, check our bags, and get to our gate. Last minute shopping in the duty free shops. They’ve changed our gate – but we didn’t hear an announcement. You’d think that when they print a boarding voucher, they’d have the right gate. In Italy, planes are boarded using early SouthWest technology – push on baby. But we settle into our seats and finally – we’re on our way home. I expect San Franciso to be boaringly well organized – what a bummer – no chaos (I think). I know Cindy is looking forward to picking us up.

PS: Well, SFO was well organized but Newark left a little to be desired. Flights leaving at the exact same time for San Francisco and Lisbon from adjacent gates with no dividers between the gates – it would have been interesting if I were sending this post from Lisbon but I don’t think Melie would have allowed it – she (and me to be honest) has had enough heat and humidity to last for a while.

Alison was at the curb as soon as our bags arrived – can you believe that they all made it – and no extra weight charges – We must be living right or something. We all decided to head directly home which may have disappointed Alison who had made all of these sleeping arrangements – but the drive home went well and all the travelers have returned home safe and happy. One last wonderful surprise but that will need to wait for another blog.

It’s been a fantastic adventure. I’m glad our family has the tradition of taking grandchildren on an adventure to Europe – it was a wonderful time for me and one that I’ll cherish. Thanks to everyone.

Norv/Dad/Boppa

Rome-day2-Norv

Rome-Day 2:
Melie and I took a walk this morning – the boys were still sleeping (and when we got back they were still sleeping) – along the Tiber. As we were crossing a bridge, we looked down and saw some horses and ponys (and a small colt). It was amazing to see a small farm in the middle of the city. We stopped at a small pizzeria and had a wonderful breakfast of pizza and beer – definitely a good way to start the day. Today was the Vatican – so we decided to use the Metro. Sharon had suggested the 23 bus, but we decided to stay with what we knew.
As you near the Vatican, there are lots of tour guides – “the wait for the Vatican Museum is 4 hours.” Well, we walked into St Peter’s Square and followed the crowd – we picked the cupola line – and ended up inside the dome of St. Peters! We were a hundred feet off the floor of the Basilica – right next to all of the frescos. It was fantastic. The boys wanted to go up to the top of the dome – and I let them. Another 330 steps wasn’t fitting into my schedule today. We waited on the roof of St Peters – what a view of the city. The boys went up to the very top of the dome – Greg said he got pictures – I look forward to seeing them.
When we got down from the dome, we were let out onto the floor of the Basilica. It was very inspiring. As we left the Basilica, we saw Michelangelo’s Pieta. I saw a copy when I was in high school – but the original was magnificent. As we walked out into the Square, we looked for directions to the Sistine Chapel – out through the columns, turn left – 1 Km. We’re getting a lot of exercise. We wound around the outside of Vatican city and eventually came to the entrance for the Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel. We didn’t realize that you basically walk the entire Vatican Museum before you get to the Sistine Chapel. It was late – they didn’t let anyone into the museum after 4 --- and I wanted to make sure we got to the chapel. By the time I realized what was happening, we had gone about 2/3 of the way through the museum. It was an incredible collection of art through the ages – Roman and Greek sculptures, medieval tapestries, Renaissance paintings, modern art (we saw 3 Salvador Dali’s and a Diego Rivera) - but eventually we walked into the Sistine Chapel. I was overwhelmed. Seeing pictures in books just doesn’t match it. The colors and life of the frescos is overwhelming – I know I’m using that word a lot – but tonight it’s the only word coming to mind. This is an extraordinary experience. I don’t know if the boys understand what they’re seeing – but I know that they’ll remember this experience.
So I want to see the Pantheon. We had thought to go tomorrow, but Melie had read that it was beautiful at night – it was about 5 so we thought we’d head that way. Everyone decided the Metro was a better bet than walking – so back to the Spanish Steps as the shortest route (Spagna station). We wandered through the area again (we’ll probably be back tomorrow since this is listed as a good shopping area) and eventually came upon the Pantheon. It’s almost 2,000 years old and Michelangelo used it as his model for St. Peter’s. It’s 2 feet larger in diameter than St. Peters and is 142 feet high and wide – a perfect half-circle (half a ball). There is an 18 foot hole in the ceiling to let out the smoke from the sacrifices. It was originally built by Agrippa in 27BC and rebuilt by Hadrian (of the wall fame) in the second century – he actually designed the dome. Until the 20th century, it was the largest concrete dome in the world. We saw them setting up a concert venue, so we decided to have dinner on the plaza. Beer sounded great. Dinner was so-so. As we waited, various street entertainers passed through – an accordion player and a clown – although in white face he was a lot like the clown we saw in Sienna. The Italians certainly don’t rush you – and we sat there for three hours. It was worth waiting, because an opera singer showed up. All of the performers picked other café’s as their focus – so we never faced the passed hat. It was probably because we were right next to the McDonalds – another café on the piazza. Since it appeared the music wasn’t going to start, we headed off to a fountain that Sharon had suggested to me. It was great. The fountain itself was being restored. But it was a huge square with three fountains – and lots of entertainers and artists. We enjoyed an easy stroll around the square, then decided to head back home. The shortest way was back through Pantheon square – this was a great opportunity. There was a mime who was great. We watched him for almost half an hour. After he finished, we finally headed back to the apartment. Another full (and exhausting) day. However, all of the “sites” are now crossed off the list (Chris wants to see the catacombs but they’re not anywhere near here – it’s good to leave something for the next time).

Roma-melie

Sunday – Rome


On Saturday we left the ship and were quickly thrown back into real life, where smiling, friendly young people from all over the world no longer jump to fill your every desire and solve your every problem. Finding our way in the heat and confusion from the port to the train to Rome is best described by Norv, who I am sure has done an adequate job. Suffice to say, Civitivecchia is NOT his favorite place in Italy.
But anyway, we ended up in our apartment which is centrally located and is very nice. It is fairly new, all modern with lots of windows and white walls reflecting the sunlight and also filled with the minimum amount of Ikea furniture necessary for survival. Such a contrast to the cruise ship, where every available surface is covered with designs in patterns and colors that are beautiful and rich, but seem to have no connection to each other. Right now the simplicity of design is restful to the spirit.
So after settling in and letting the boys sleep for 5 hours or so while we went grocery shopping, we went to the Spanish Steps last night and ate dinner in a café that was recommended in our guide book. More pasta, more bread, more wine – I’m sure you’re getting familiar with the routine. Then we hung around the steps and took pictures, walked to the Trevi Fountain for more pictures, and made our way back “home” on the Metro .
The next day, the guys went off to the Coliseum (I have been to, done that before), and I attacked in earnest the task of finishing my grading for the class I am teaching online. A quick survey of our neighborhood turned up no internet cafes at all, so I took the Metro to one near the Spanish steps which I had seen the night before. This was a combination laundry and internet café, as I wrote about previously, and I am sure it is a more pleasant place in April or December than August. But the computers were fast and the people nice, so I bought two hours worth of time and settled in. After checking my email and Owen’s blog, I went to the schools course management website, which was down for maintenance from 2-5 a.m., which of course coincided with our 11-2, which of course was where I was smack dab in the middle of. So I philosophically decided to wander around the shops and get something to eat until 2:00. The free time was quite enjoyable – in fact wonderful - and then I came back around 2:30 to begin again. I bought another two hours, settled in and was relieved to be able to open up my class with no problem. I read one essay, wrote comments and posted a grade, read a second essay, began posting comments when the site went down AGAIN for maintenance: the regular Sunday 6-9 a.m. slot, which translates to our 3-6 p.m. I’d forgotten! I tried to remain calm, and decided to use the time to upload the blog entries Norv and I had saved on a media stick, but had had no internet access available to send them off with. That led to 25 minutes of problems, several Sunday “tech” guys trying to help me, etc. – I wrote about it before – and the bottom line was that their computers weren’t set up to accept documents written with our Word program. So I went home defeated.
A few hours later, the guys came home and settled in for several hours of sleep, which was not on my agenda at all. So I took off again for the internet café (this is about 9 Metro stops, and one transfer of trains away, by the way), and found things had settled down in the Laundromat, I got a computer nearer the door and farther away from the dryers, and finally, I was able to finish the class. What a relief.
When I got back to the apartment, it was about 9 p.m., and we went across the street to a “pizzeria” that has a terrace on the back overlooking the Tiber River. It turned out to be a full-fledged restaurant, and was very enjoyable. Greg and Chris got their own pizza’s and we ate the usual pasta/salad. I got to hear all about the events of the boys’ day, which sounded like a real success.
Yesterday, Monday (?), Norv and I got up and went out for a long walk and a “breakfast” at an outdoor café. I’m not sure beer and pizza is even an Italian tradition, but by 10:30 a.m., it was already so hot and so humid that it sounded like a great idea. One of my favorite meals so far…..
By 11:30, we came back and roused the boys so we could get started off on our days’ mission: the Vatican and St. Peter’s Basilica. Once we got to St. Peter’s, we found ourselves in a line to SOMETHING, and we just got pushed along with the masses, wondering exactly where we were going. It turned out to be a line to climb the hundreds of stairs to the cupola of the Basilica – or to the tombs. We chose the stairs (actually, Norv and I chose the elevator that goes about 1/3 of the way up), and we were rewarded with an amazing view of the Basilica’s ground floor. Absolutely gorgeous and awe-inspiring. After exploring the lower level of the Basilica, we walked around the whole complex to get in line for the Vatican Museum and the Sistine Chapel. It was crowded, but we had no wait at all; we just moved along with the group, room after room after room (no time to stop, of course) until we finally arrived in the Sistine Chapel and stood for a while with our mouths gaping open and our necks bent horizontally. It was magnificent. It appeared that the boys, who were tired and hot and hungry and anxious to hit the souvenir shops, were even impressed. No matter; I honestly believe it will be a memory they will go back to for many years in the future.
From there, we took the Metro back to the Spanish Steps and walked to the Pantheon, which was high on Norv’s list of sights to see. It too was fabulous – an architectural marvel and a very immense, marble patterned space. I really loved it. Then we staked out an outside table at a café directly across from the Pantheon and the fountain in front of it, and settled in for 3 hours of eating, people watching, and enjoying the street musicians and clowns who took turns entertaining us (and passing the hat later). This will be one of my very best memories ever. So perfect, with the Pantheon and fountain lit up in the night , the crowd laughing and clapping together, the numerous tour groups marching by with the leaders holding high a stick with something – a sunflower, a pennant, a furry ball - on the top to identify their group. One of the street clowns made fun of them by strutting with a toilet brush holder held up proudly in front of him.
To end this rambling, I will just say we then went to yet another fountain which was even bigger and more amazing than the others – and finally caught the Metro for home. We got home around midnight, and that’s about all I remember. Today we are finishing breakfast and then going off for a day of shopping. This is the day the boys have most looked forward to, so I know they’re going to be happy campers. I look forward to not looking at anything or taking pictures of anything, and most of all, I look forward to coming home tomorrow. See you soon!

Roma-Day UNO-Norv

Rome – Day 1:
We finally made it to the apartment. Thank goodness we took a taxi – I would hate to think what it would have been like trying to find the street on our own while schlepping the bags.
A nice woman, Sharon Alexander, is taking care of the apartments for this holiday period. She showed us to our apartment – but the AC didn’t work. It was a nice place, but since Italy is running in the 35-40 C range (that’s high 90’s and above folks) – AC becomes a necessity. However there is another similar unit available – not quite as nice – but COOL. So we settle into 108. And collapse. Just a little stretch and I’m gone. We can here the boys snoring up in their loft – guess last night’s all-nighter has caught up to them. Mel and I go into the supermarket to stock up the fridge – breakfast, lunch, laundry soap, drinks. Stupid Americans, don’t even know how to shop. They had to show me how to weigh and print tickets for the veg’s – what – no Raley’s process. Our bags are way to heavy, but it’s only a short walk back to the apartment. Looks like we’re ready.
Well, we drag them up around 6 and head off for the Spanish Steps and the Trevi Foutain. We’re going to use the Metro – a 3 day pass for 11 Euro each – this looks to be a good deal. It’s a great system. The St Paolo (St. Paul Basilica) station is about a five minute walk – Sharon tells us to make certain to use this stop. Of course, I rush and pick the wrong direction – but we get straightened out quickly, make an easy transfer, and get off the Metro right next to the Spanish Steps – just as the sun is setting. Tourists everywhere – but it’s cool. Melie had found a restaurant in the Italy guide – wonder if we can find it – hey, guess what – there it is – Otello Concordia Restaurante! No reservations, but no problem – we settle into their patio and have a nice dinner. Then its back to the Spanish steps and off to the Trevi fountain. This was a little less clear – but we found the fountain all lit up – and jammed. Every once in a while you’d hear the police whistle as someone tried to step into the fountain. It was extraordinary – truly a beautiful place.
It’s late, so back to the Metro – they do tend to hide these stations pretty well – you’re never certain until you’re right on top of it. But we got back to the apartment – even if I was dragging. Collapse – thank god the bed’s comfortable.

Rome – Day 2:
Mel still needs to find an Internet Café – there’s no wireless. So we decide that I take the boys to the Coliseum. A little breakfast – I make some sandwiches- and we’re off. We get off at the Colleseo stop and there it is, the Coliseum right in front of us. I had planned ongoing to Trajan’s Column and working back toward the Coliseum. As we worked up to the Column, we passed through much of the Forum area. They’ve shut off much of the area, but you can look down into it. Eventually we get to the Column and start back. Next stop, the Palentine. Glen had asked Chris to take a picture of the Coliseum from the Palentine hill – he had tried to take one when he was here, but the picture never came out. We trudged through the many ruins – you need to buy a ticket to the Forum, Palentine, and Coliseum—but it works. At the top of the hill, we saw the ruins of the Emperor’s Palace—originally built by Augustus and finished/redone by later emperors. At the top of the hill was Mussilini’s palace – now used as a museum. We saw lots of examples of the marble walls, mosaics, and fresco’s. We wandered around the hill, and think we found the spot where Glen took the picture – so we took another one, two, three, four. Then on to the Coliseum. It was good we already had a ticket – it really shortened the wait. We were able to wander around both levels of the Coliseum – lots of pictures. They’ve built a stage on one end of the Coliseum so that you get a great sense of where the floor of the stadium really was – some of those folks were really close to the action. So the temperature has been very high – it’s hot as hell! Fortunately they have lots of little springs where you can fill up your water bottles. It’s really great that you can get water without needing to part with several Euros. There was a really long line at the last water station – however it’s amazing how few water closets there are. Lots of places to put water in but not many to get it out.
As we walked back, Chris really wanted to stop at Mickey D’s for an ice cream. Now you need to know that I consider this most profane – Anything to avoid a McDonalds in Rome – when we have all this Italian. Well, just outside of the Metro station was a Bar – but in these bars they serve beer, booze, sandwiches, and Gelato – so Chris had to deal with Gelato rather than McDonalds tastee freeze! It is interesting that “bar” has such a different meaning here. Back to the apartment – hope Melie is there. She lets us in – she has the only keys but has only just arrived. While we rest from the Coliseum, Melie heads back to the Spanish Steps – she’s finally found an Internet Café – but of course Blackboard has been down almost all “day.” When she returns, we go across the street – there is a café with a terrace that looks out over the Tiber River. It’s really Italian – there are no English menus which we’ve been given in the more “touristy” areas. It’s a struggle but we end up with some really good food – and more good Sicilian wine.

Cannes

Cannes:
This should be a low key stop. I’m not interested in Monoco - besides most of the tours are sold out. Carnival really has you in its grip. So we decided to give the boys a day “off.” In the morning, we walked around Cannes – the boys and I climbed up to the Castle and got to see a little of old Cannes. Then we walked along the bayside – really expensive hotels. Of course, Chris is anxious to shop – so we head back toward the ship. Even Chris finds the prices pretty high. Lots of high end shops to take care of the needs of the hotel dwellers. For the afternoon we split up. The boys head back to the ship for lunch and swim suits – there’s a little beach right next to the pier. Oh yeah, the ship can’t dock – so we take launches into the city – at least they’re free. It seems, if it’s not your room or the restaurant, you need to pay for it – oh well – I must be anticipating my cruise bill.
For the afternoon, Melie and I take a tour of Nice and the village of Eze (nice&EZ) – it’s probably one of the cheapest tours. At least we’ll be able to sit in an air-conditioned bus. The humidity and heat are starting to take their toll. As we go east toward Nice, we get a nice history of the area – Cannes takes it name from the Latin for bamboo. Also, in the travel-log we get the scuttle on who lives where – real estate in the area is currently going for 40,000 Euros/square meter – maybe someday I’ll be able to afford a closet. Who knows, maybe Elton John or Tina Turner will be our neighbors. We have a little time in Nice – Mel and I do a little window shopping and find a nice sidewalk café. We have a great lunch and head back to the bus – on to Eze. Eze is a little medieval town at the top of a mountain – really little. We climb to the very top and find a little shop (about 8 X 10) – we go in to buy some post cards and end up with some really nice things – I find a small ceramic plate made by the cousin of the shopkeeper. Melie found some interesting things – some hand painted puzzles were really cute – but too expensive. On the way back down the hill we passed a little shop selling clothes. I’ve really admired some white shirts I’ve seen (yes – the clothes horse lives), and they had some nice ones – so I bought one. Melie also bought a blouse. My shirt (I think) gives me a bit of an European look – anyway I like it. We wore them that night to dinner.

Livorno/Florence:
A yes, we’re back in Italy! Last night they informed us that the shuttles wouldn’t start running until 9:00! In my meticulous planning [(:>)], I’d already bought train ticket for the 8:11 out of Livorno to Florence. This is the first port where we’ve had a delay like this – and of course, this is the one I’ve over-organized. An you MUST use the shuttle – there is no walking off the ship – we’re in the middle of an industrial area – and I do mean industrial – and at least 2 Km from the city proper – I’d already told the boys to be ready to go at 7:00 so we could get to the train for the 8:11 departure. Oh, and the train station is on the OTHER side of Livorno – another 4-5 Kms – we’d need to take a bus or taxi. OK – looks like we’ll not gett to Florence in time for my 10:30 tickets (yeah, I bought these ahead also) to the Ufizzi. My Florence trip is disintegrating – and you all know how well I handle this. Well, Mel in her calm says, well-lets just get off the ship and see. So we have breakfast and head down to embarkation – guess what, we’re off the ship and there’s a shuttle. It takes us a half hour to get out of the port area – after about 15 minutes of driving and twisting, we’ve only gotten about 200 feet from the ship! Eventually we get to the Piazza Grande of Livorno, get tickets, and get on the bus to the train stazione. Our train tickets are not time specific (like I thought) – so we get them validated and we’re on the Firenzi train. Some napping, but at last we get to the centrale stazione of Florence, and now – of yeah – a medieval city. However we easily find the Duomo, then there is an easy walk to the Ufizzi – and a really long line. The guard says – go to door 3 – the only one not marked! But, eventually, they honor my 10:30 pass (it’s now about 12:30) – and we’re into the museum. But we have a 2:15 ticket for the Academia – and the statue of David. So Ufizzi is a bit rushed – but we do see some wonderful early Renaissance art. I finally see the actual Birth of Venus and the Primavera by Botticelli. A lot to cover. I wished we’d had more time – not enough for Greg – too much for Christ. But we’re off to see “David.” We’re following the signs and all of a sudden, a little sign on the side of the building – this is the Academia? Yes – but we’re a little hungry – and little time. But there’s a supermarket just down the street, and we buy some sandwiches and coke – and eat “al fresco” on the curb. Then into the Academia – or pre-arranged tickets work great and we’re in. There’s more here and we get a little time to explore. The status of David is extraordinary. We’re all impressed – even Chris. It’s presentation is perfect – this was definitely worth the visit.
Next deadline – we need to be on the 3:27 train to Livorno – or we may miss the ship. I’m pushing everyone – but we make the train. The bus ride to the port area is a lot longer than the ride out to the Stazione – we finally get to the Piazza Grande and catch a shuttle about 5:20 – I think the last one – oh I don’t want to think about that. Anyway, more twisting through the port area and finally back to the ship. Exhausted, we realize we need to pack everything up – they plan to collect our bags by 11:00! Well, things get jammed into suitcases. We’ll sort it out in Rome. Bags make it and we collapse. Fortunately we’re one of the last groups off the ship. Both of the boys want to make the most of their last night – Greg’s group has decided to pull an “all-nighter.” Funny thing – this had a different meaning when I was younger. Next morning – breakfast, wait, and leave.

Civitaveccia:
Remember how wonderful this place was when we arrived. Well it hasn’t gotten better! The debarkation from the ship is very smooth (they want us off so they can load the next group). Everything goes well until we’re outside of the tent. Free shuttle? Nope, these are all private shuttles. Finally a “free shuttle” arrives – just a regular city bus – no place for luggage! Well, we miss that one – and wait, and wait, and wait. Finally another free shuttle arrives, we’re first in line (I’ve learned how to do that) – we load the luggage, board the shuttle, and we’re off to the drop off point. They have assured us that it’s just a short walk to the train station – down the quay. Well, they were right. In fact the train station is just past the Hertz drop off point – hey we’ve been here before. Into the train station, buy our tickets – only 18 Euro’s to Rome for all of us. We schlep our luggage onto the train – by the way – there is no ADA in Italy. Just lots of stairs. Down into the tunnel (lots of stairs), under the tracks, up more stairs – Melie has a tough time with her bags – Greg helps her drag them up the steps – finally we crowd onto the train, find a place to store the bags – and we’re off to Rome. On the ride over, I decide we’re taking a taxi to the apartment – schlepping bags on the Metro isn’t going to work. But the taxi gets us to the apartment and we’re in Rome!

Livorno

Whoa- what happened? A whole bunch of days went by – real fast. It is now Friday night and we are getting ready to leave Livorno (they seem to be holding off for a couple of late arrivals), and then tomorrow we disembark and head off to Rome for a few days. We have an apartment there, which will be nice in some respects (laundry, kitchen, quiet (?)) and not so nice in others (no happy hour, free buffets and fancy dinners, no spa, and pool, etc., etc.) The cruise life is easy to get used to, although I am increasingly anxious to get home to all of you.
Today we went to Florence for a very brief whirl around the city, fitting in quick trips to the Uffizi museum (Norv wanted to see the Botticelli’s) and the Academia (I wanted to see David), and a walk around the Duomo. This whole adventure involved more time on the shuttle, the bus, the train – and then repeated in reverse order – than in Florence, but hey, at least we saw it. No time to buy souvenirs, much to Chris’ s disappointment, but I figure you can buy Florence stuff in Rome. It would be fun to go back someday. Oh, and our lunch consisted of pre-made deli sandwiches and sodas from a little supermarket across from the gallery. We ate them sitting on the sidewalk as people walked around us; Norv said this put a whole new twist on a sidewalk café’.
Yesterday we were in Cannes, which was beautiful and a nice change in language. The guys walked around the town in the morning while I shopped and hunted for an internet café so I could work on grading for my online class. I found a café, which was way cheaper than the ship’s internet, but unfortunately, the time I was there coincided with the time the course website is down for maintenance. So I’m hoping to find a café or have wireless in our apartment in Rome. The grades are due in a few days, and I just need a couple of hours to finish this up. It has been somewhat of a pain trying to teach while cruising, but only because of the unpredictable and incredibly slow (and hugely expensive) internet on the ship. But this class is what is paying for the cruise for me, so it’s worth it!
In the afternoon yesterday, Chris and Greg and some friends went to the beach, and Norv and I took an excursion to Nice and Eze, which is a very quaint, exceedingly beautiful medieval town on a very high cliff. It reminded me of Carmel because the shops were so high-end and tiny and set into little holes in the mountain –so adorable. Norv bought a handmade glass mosaic plate, and we both bought bright white cotton shirts. We lunched at yet another sidewalk café – this time at a table – in Nice, which was very, very good. Chris joined us for dinner last night and we had a very good time with him.
The day before yesterday, which must have been Wednesday, we went to Barcelona, which blew me away. It is so stunning and classy and there was just beautiful art and just plain style everywhere – in the signs, the stores, the landscape – everywhere. We wandered around getting lost again, but it was fun – to a point. Did I mention that the heat and humidity is really, really getting to me? It just wipes me out. So at one point, Norv actually broke down and asked for directions, which is pretty impressive. Good role modeling for the boys, I thought. We went to the Picasso Museum and saw lots of his very early and very late pieces, and it was extremely interesting. The progression in his skill and style was fascinating, and we got some good souvenirs in the gift shop. We ate in a Spanish restaurant and had tapas and sangria. Greg enjoyed acting like a Barcelonian (?) – with a coke, of course. And Chris had his usual spaghetti.
I just had to run out to the balcony (at Norv’s request) and see the pilot jump back on his pilot boat after escorting the ship out of the harbor. It’s a beautiful evening here, and I guess everyone is getting nostalgic about it being our last night. Anyway, tons of us were hanging over our balconies, taking pictures, and when the pilot finally got on the boat, everyone started clapping and yelling. He obliged us by waving grandly for the photos for several minutes. I love these sea traditions…..That and the way we all run out and wave to the people on passing cruise ships, who of course are waving madly at US. It’s all very touching and silly…….
So all I’ve left out really (besides a fun day at sea in which all we did – literally – was read) is our trip to Messina on Sicily. Besides another terrific lunch, what we remember most was a trip to the town – yes, another medieval town - of Taormina, which was one of my very favorite places on this trip, It also has a mixture of Greek and Roman ruins. I can’t explain it, but there is just something different about the sunshine in Sicily and the people there. Maybe it is in my head, but it sure seems to be a real difference . As most of you know, I took a road trip around Sicily 4 years ago, and I absolutely loved it. So many different countries have left their mark there that it has the ability to seem like another country every time you move to the next town. So much variety and beauty. Anyway, when I was there I saw three of the four Greek/Roman structures on the island, which are just stunning, and may be as close as I ever get to Greece. So it happens that Taormina was the only town I didn’t have time to see that time, even though I really wanted to – there just wasn’t time. So it feels wonderful to have filled in that gap and to have seen all four of the ruins. I even bought a cheesy souvenir dishcloth with pictures of all four of them on it, which just wouldn’t have been right to own until now. So I’m pretty pleased with life right now.
And now it is time to get packing…..
Oh, I forgot to tell a few of you who would care that we drove right by the hospital in Nice yesterday where Angelina just gave birth to the twins. Definitely the highlight of the whole trip…..It is RIGHT across the street from the beautiful beach.

Technical Difficulties!

Just a note to say that I have spent much of the day in an internet-laundromat combination working on my class (which I finished!)and trying to download some blog notes that Norv and I have written. It seems these computers can't download anything written in Word 2007, so you'll have to wait for the exciting details of our last few days. We are in Rome, alive, well and sweating. (Try sitting in a laundromat for hours when it's 100% humidity and 90 degrees outside. No wonder all the Italians have left town for the month.....)
Anyway, tomorrow their computer expert will be in, so we might be successful. Or maybe by chance, another internet cafe will materialize - one that is open, that is. Many of the businesses here are closed for the month so their owners can escape the heat, which I completely understand now and which will ultimately save us a lot of money, I'm sure.

See you soon!

Love, Melie